Central Italy

The central regions of Italy are responsible for what is probably the best known of all Italian red wine, Chianti. This DOCG wine hails from Tuscany, probably the best known and most travelled Italian wine region, as it is home to such beautiful destinations as Florence and Pisa. Chianti is made from the Sangiovese grape, with small amounts of other grapes, including Cabernet Sauvignon, also permissible. The best wines are from the Chianti Classico subregion, but others are also worth trying, particularly Chianti Rufina.

The very best wines are aged for longer before release, and are designated Riserva, and these are from the Classico and Rufina regions. So-called 'Super-Tuscans' - wines made outside the DOC/DOCG rules - can offer top quality, but often at a price, eg Sassicaia, Tignanello, Solaia, Cepparello.
My top wines: My favourite producers include Fonterutoli, Felsina, Fontodi, Antinori, Castello di Brolio, Isole e Olena. Good value wines also from Cafaggio.

From nearby Montalcino comes Brunello di Montalcino, another famous Italian red wine which, like Chianti, is another DOCG wine made from Sangiovese (Brunello is the local name for this grape). If aged for five years before release it may be designated Riserva. Rosso di Montalcino is another red wine made here, but is intended to be consumed in its youth. If from a good producer it can represent good value for money.
My top wines: Argiano, Brunelli, Casanova di Neri, Costanti, Biondi Santi.

Not too far from Montalcino is Montepulciano, home to Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, another impressive Italian red wine DOCG, again made from Sangiovese - it is not to be confused with wines made from the Montepulciano grape. Vino Nobile has a reputation for being austere, but from the best producers it can be wonderful.
My top wines: Avignonesi, Boscarelli, Poliziano.

Outside of the three most important regions in Tuscany - Chianti, Montalcino & Montepulciano - there are a number of regions along the coast which are also home to some delicious, good value and also serious wines. The DOC Morellino di Scansano (Morellino is another regional name for Sangiovese) is the longest established and most well known. If looking for Italian red wine at a bargain price this can be a good hunting ground.

My top wines: Le Pupille.

Outside of Tuscany the regions of Emilia-Romagna, Umbria and Latium produce some of the most infamous of all Italian wines. Many of us have experienced the produce of these Italian wine regions, as from the former comes Lambrusco and from Latium comes Frascati, two of the most abused names in Italian wine making. There are some good wines to be found though. From the Marches come Rosso Conero and Rosso Piceno, both red wines made from Montepulciano in combination with other grapes, and both can be good value. Verdicchio is the grape largely responsible for the regions best known white wine, Verdicchio and Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi. Both can be good drinking. From Abruzzi comes Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, a reliable red wine, also made from the Montepulciano grape.
My top wines: Moroder (Rosso Conero), Sarteralli, Garofoli (both Verdicchio), Valentini, Marruchina (both Montepulciano d'Abruzzo).

Southern Italy

In the south the production centres around red wine, which may rival the wines of the south of France for interest and good value. There are few wines of interest in Molise, Campania, Basilicata or Calabria but Puglia (Apulia) is a more rewarding hunting ground.

The DOCs of Castel del Monte, Salice Salentino, Copertino and Primitivo di Manduria have the best reputation. There is little wine of interest on Sardinia, but Sicily is an Italian wine region on the up. Known for its fortified wine Marsala, the table wines are improving in quality. These are often made outside the DOC regulations as Vina da Tavola or IGT wines. Sicilian white wine, from a top producer such as Planeta, can rival the red wine for quality.
My top wines: Copertino Co-operative (Copertino), Candido (Salice Salentino), Rivera (Castel del Monte), Planeta (Sicily).

Vintages

It's impossible to generalise with regard to vintages for Italian wine, as we are dealing with such a huge country. Vintage conditions differ for each Italian wine region. Good vintages for Barolo and Barbaresco include 1985, 1988, 1989, 1990, 1993, and most years of the late 1990s. With regard to Chianti, again many vintages of the late 1990s have been successful, with 1997 the most lauded. Of recent years only 1991 and 1992 are worth avoiding.